SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier and new Santos Dumont delights with Refined Improvements

1913 serial manufacturing mannequin Santos Dumont primarily based on the unique timepiece bespoke for Alberto Santos Dumont

Designed for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont in 1904, the namesake Santos de Cartier is the primary watch designed particularly as a wristwatch within the early 20th century when pocket watches have been nonetheless de rigueur and the development for welding lugs onto these watches in an effort to slip them on wrists with straps was simply starting. Indeed, the operate of hands-on flight management operations formed the type of this distinctive, early “aviation watch”. Eventually, the Santos de Cartier went from bespoke wristwatch to serial manufacturing mannequin in 1911 with its precision actions being offered by the watchmaker to watchmakers, Le Coultre.

Over the many years, the Cartier Santos has been a defining watch icon for the Parisian jeweller. Conceived 5 years earlier than the long-lasting Cartier Tank, the Cartier de Santos has, since its creation, at all times been outlined by the screwed in bezel, sq. dial with Roman numerals and its gentle angular sq. case. In time, crown guards have been added to the preliminary design in response to traits of the day however the DNA of the Cartier Santos remained ever devoted. For SIHH 2019, the brand new Santos-Dumont timepiece is an understated, pared-down, genuine interpretation fitted to an alligator leather-based strap. Where the 2018 mannequin touted purposeful class due to its simply alterable and interchangeable bracelet/strap choices, the most recent Santos-Dumont stays true to the refined proportions and class of the unique 1904 mannequin.

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier and new Santos Dumont delights with Refined Improvements

Cased in gold, gold and metal or all metal, the brand new SIHH 2019 Santos Dumont takes the signature design codes like Roman numerals, seen screws on bezel (a significant “faux pas” in luxurious watchmaking of that period) , beaded winding crown sans crown guards and blue cabochon, and continues the legacy of the early watchmaking traditional.



The primary geometry whereas drastically refined, stays unchanged. Promoting the pure and symmetrical mirroring the 4 corners of the Eiffel Tower, the Cartier Santos Dumont symbolised the design revolution of the early 1900s when it ran counter-current to the time interval’s accepted watch design codes. The Santos Dumont was an early pioneer, highlighting straight strains and breaking with the spherical circumstances of the interval’s pocket watches.

While it’s anybody’s guess why Cartier selected a excessive autonomy quartz motion for the brand new Santos Dumont when the maison might simply have simply geared up it with an extremely skinny calibre, it’s my guess that in choosing quartz, the pure, pure, pared-down Santos Dumont timepiece might then be provided at drastically engaging value factors for a wider market. With extremely skinny motion, it will be obtainable solely to probably the most devoted of connoisseurs however with the heretofore unseen 6 years run-time excessive autonomy quartz calibre, Cartier makes probably the most potent argument this SIHH 2019 with peerless practicality in its modern reflection of the type of Alberto Santos Dumont. Able to function twice so long as conventional quartz actions,  the SIHH 2019 Cartier Santos Dumont’s high-efficiency quartz motion  was achieved with a reworked and resized motion for diminished vitality consumption after which powered with a brand new high-performance battery. My inclinations have at all times been in the direction of mechanical timekeeping however the newest 2019 Santos Dumont is an undisputed counter argument for quartz.

New Santos Dumont Price and Specs

Movement High autonomy quartz calibre with 6 years energy reserve
Case 38mm Stainless metal with black ADLC bezel, stainless-steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather-based
Price From US$5,500

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Chronograph

2018 noticed the reinvention of the Santos assortment and since a chronograph has at all times been a part of the sequence, its becoming that for SIHH 2019, Cartier re-introduces the Santos de Cartier Chronograph in related 43.3mm proportions as its modern pioneer. Available in three variants: stainless-steel with a black ADLC metal bezel, stainless-steel with an 18ok yellow gold bezel, and stable 18ok rose gold, the 2019 Santos de Cartier Chronograph incorporates a drastically modified 1904-CH MC chronograph calibre which eschews the standard pushers across the crown format for a extra symmetrical look – placing begin/cease pusher on the left facet of the brand new Santos de Cartier chronograph after which mirrored by the crown with reset operate itself built-in into the crown.

Of nice horological curiosity is how the new Santos de Cartier chronograph makes refined reference to the Cartier Paris Collection Prive or CPCP monopusher chronograph operation idea discovered on classic Cartier Tortue Chronograph fashions. This consideration to class and ergonomics merely takes that heritage into the 21st century.

Fitted with the 1904-CH MC Cartier Manufacture motion, the SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier chronograph incorporates a advantageous watchmaking chronograph calibre with column wheel, vertical clutch, and linear reset hammer.

New Santos de Cartier Chronograph Price and Specs

Movement Automatic calibre 1904-CH MC with 48 hours energy reserve
Case 43.3mm Stainless metal with black ADLC bezel, stainless-steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 100 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather-based
Price From US$eight,950 to US$24,700

SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule

If the most recent Santos Dumont was spiritually genuine interpretation of the milestone 1904 wristwatch, the brand new SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule may be thought-about a publish fashionable variant. With bridges are coated with Super-LumiNova pigments, the brand new Skeleton Noctambule appears to be like much like the primary Santos de Cartier Skeleton by day however by evening, the Super-LumiNova coated bridges mild up the countenance of the timepiece.

The new Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule is provided with the Manufacture calibre 9612 with guide winding and skeletonised bridges within the form of Roman numerals.

New Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule Price and Specs

Movement Manual winding calibre 9612 MC with 72 hours energy reserve
Case 38mm Stainless metal with black ADLC bezel, stainless-steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather-based
Price From US$27,000

onpost_follow

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Whatsapp