Fusing past and future aesthetics with sporty-formal attire, Miuccia Prada explores both extremes of the spectrum when dressing the modern man. Strutting the runway through a fascist-style piazza designed by AMO, part of Rem Koolhaas’ architecture firm, past cardboard-constructed statues of men on horses, as an ominous bass and fading trumpets echoed through the venue – Prada’s Fall 2020 show was almost heroic.
Mirroring the collection with a series of offbeat colours, the set flashed mauve, red and pea green as models clothed in bare-armed tank tops, three-piece suits or mismatched tailored separates and high notch-collared two button topcoats graced the stage.
“I thought to give an indication that the only thing that makes me calm and optimistic is to give value to work… to give value to things that matter in your life and your work. And so the creativity is mixed with technicalities, which is a little bit similar to the Secessionist period when ideas, creativity, and actual work had to be all together. I want to give a hope that in this casino [chaotic world] if you do well your job, paired with intelligence, and with culture, then this already is something… It’s to give respect to work, to effort, to fatigue, and to what is difficult.” – Miuccia Prada.
Contrary to the designer’s exegesis, each model showcased profession-specific attire, alluding to the aesthetic of rural workers, young executives, and freelancers with mid-calf boots, oversized corduroy jackets, piped sport raised graphics on pocket flaps, rubberized coats, baggy pants, a wicked green half-length coat and beaten leather galvanized sole boots, alongside an array of technical wear.
Transitioning seamlessly into fashion-forward top-to-toe cotton day pajamas with small ruffled bibs and treated shearlings, the collection came to an eventual close, featuring knit and silk patterned topcoats with lavender and olive-coloured gridded graphics.