Pat McGrath Subversive Mini Eyeshadow Palette Review & Swatches

Subversive

Pat McGrath Subversive Eye Ecstasy Mini Eyeshadow Palette ($28.00 for 0.18 oz.) is a rich, more jewel-toned combination of shades. Two of the shades (Crimson Fire and Synthetica) in the palette are available as single eyeshadows, while the other three are from the Decadence palette (the one I rave about incessantly). I’m pleased to report that the eyeshadows are fantastic: pigmented, creamy, blendable, long-wearing, and all-around a dream to work with; they were fairly consistent with the original releases–I’d argue that Synthetica was a bit smoother (but slightly less sparkly).

The packaging is functional; it’s by no means luxe or weighty like the Mothership Palettes, but it seems like it would hold up for travel to me. The cover will give a little if you pushed firmly on the center, but it has a good click to stay shut. If you’re someone who would rather more of the cost go toward the actual product than the packaging, this is that–it contains $118.42 worth of eyeshadow! I would have liked to have seen something more in line with Natasha Denona’s mini palettes re: packaging — it doesn’t feel like a departure from the brand, though, and it’s more space-efficient!

Pat McGrath Lapis Luxury EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Lapis Luxury EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Lapis Luxury EYEdols EyeshadowPat McGrath Lapis Luxury EYEdols Eyeshadow

Lapis Luxury

Lapis Luxury is a rich, medium-dark blue-teal with cool undertones and a bright, metallic finish. The eyeshadow had a creamy consistency that was smooth to the touch, dense but not too thick or too stiff that it became difficult to pick up product with a dry brush. It had opaque pigmentation in a single layer, which wore nicely for 10 hours before creasing slightly. It performed consistently with past releases.

Guerlain Les Aquas #3 (P, ) is less shimmery (90% similar).NABLA Cosmetics Under Pressure (P, $8.00) is less shimmery, more muted (90% similar).Milani Blue My Mind (P, $6.99) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).Too Faced Mystic Hour (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted (90% similar).Urban Decay Plunge (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).Tarte Artist (LE, ) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).Colour Pop On One (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery (90% similar).Dose of Colors Teal Me More (P, $20.00) is lighter (85% similar).City Color Under the Sea (P, $6.99) is lighter (85% similar).Sugarpill Starling (P, $13.00) is lighter (85% similar).

Formula Overview

$25.00/0.04 oz. – $625.00 Per Ounce

Pat McGrath’s eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be “super-saturated” with “creamy, soft textures” and “extreme blendability and adherence without creasing.” A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.

The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow–I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I’m not sure they’re as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash–I wish it really locked in, but there’s definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it’s within 2mm of the base.

The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.

 

Ingredients

Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Behenate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Octadecene, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Talc, Water/Aqua, Honey Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Aluminum Powder (Ci 77000), Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510), Ferric Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510).

Pat McGrath Blue Blood EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Blue Blood EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Blue Blood EYEdols EyeshadowPat McGrath Blue Blood EYEdols Eyeshadow

Blue Blood

Blue Blood is a deep plum with muted, warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It was richly pigmented with a smooth, lightly creamy consistency that was dense without being too thick or too firmly pressed in the pan. The color applied well to bare skin, blended out easily along the edge, and stayed on well for nine and a half hours on me before fading a touch. It performed consistently with past releases.

Smashbox Rock Stars (PiP, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).Pat McGrath Metropolis (LE, $25.00) is less shimmery, darker (95% similar).Anastasia Drama (LE, $12.00) is lighter (90% similar).Marc Jacobs Beauty Blitz Glitz (LE, $28.00) is more shimmery, lighter, warmer (90% similar).Fenty Beauty Nuts N Dates (PiP, ) is less shimmery, more muted (90% similar).Persona Confident (PiP, ) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).Dose of Colors Hot Mesh (P, $20.00) is darker, more muted (90% similar).Make Up For Ever I834 Grape (DC, $21.00) is less shimmery (90% similar).Pat McGrath Amnesia (LE, $25.00) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).Dior Golden Shock #1 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).

Formula Overview

$25.00/0.04 oz. – $625.00 Per Ounce

Pat McGrath’s eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be “super-saturated” with “creamy, soft textures” and “extreme blendability and adherence without creasing.” A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.

The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow–I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I’m not sure they’re as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash–I wish it really locked in, but there’s definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it’s within 2mm of the base.

The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.

 

Ingredients

Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Zinc Stearate, Talc, Stearyl Dimethicone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Octadecene, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ptfe, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Poloxamer 338, Silica, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).

Pat McGrath Gold Standard EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Gold Standard EYEdols Eyeshadow

Gold Standard

Gold Standard is a bright, medium gold with strong, warm undertones and a metallic finish. The color payoff was opaque in one layer, while the texture felt smooth to the touch, creamy without being too dense or too thick in the pan, and blended out beautifully over bare skin. The color lasted well for 10 hours on me before fading a touch. It performed consistently with past releases.

Urban Decay Stay Gold (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter (95% similar).Pat McGrath Enraptured (P, $25.00) is darker (95% similar).Coloured Raine Rose (LE, $6.99) is darker, cooler (95% similar).Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Triptych (DC, $14.00) is lighter, brighter (95% similar).Juvia’s Place Nubia (LE, ) is brighter (95% similar).Tom Ford Beauty TFX14 (LE, $36.00) is darker (90% similar).Fyrinnae Luxury (P, $7.00) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).Anastasia Bronze (PiP, $12.00) is more muted, warmer (90% similar).Natasha Denona Oro (PiP, $29.00) is darker, warmer (90% similar).City Color Pharaoh (P, $6.99) is lighter (90% similar).

Formula Overview

$25.00/0.04 oz. – $625.00 Per Ounce

Pat McGrath’s eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be “super-saturated” with “creamy, soft textures” and “extreme blendability and adherence without creasing.” A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.

The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow–I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I’m not sure they’re as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash–I wish it really locked in, but there’s definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it’s within 2mm of the base.

The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.

 

Ingredients

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Talc, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492).

Pat McGrath Synthetica EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Synthetica EYEdols Eyeshadow

Synthetica

Synthetica is a medium purple with a subtle, cooler undertone paired with multi-colored flecks of sparkle. It seemed almost like it had a blackened base and lots of lighter, brighter lavender and purple sparkle that gave it a lighter color (overall). I felt like it was a bit less sparkly compared to the previous version, though this seemed to have a more finely-milled, smoother consistency (which would make sense). It had full pigmentation in a single pass, and the color applied well to bare skin without fallout and blended out with ease. It wore well for nine and a half hours on me before fading visibly.

Kevyn Aucoin Hardwire (LE, ) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).NARS Kauai #2 (DC, $25.00) is less shimmery, darker (85% similar).MAC Get Physical (LE, $18.00) is lighter, warmer (90% similar).NARS Kauai II (PiP, $19.00) is less shimmery, darker (85% similar).Stila Vivid Amethyst (P, $24.00) is less shimmery (90% similar).Ciate Wicked (P, $24.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).Viseart Ecstacy (PiP, ) is darker, cooler (85% similar).Urban Decay Stormborn (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter, warmer (85% similar).Ciate Oh, Roger (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker, less pigmented (90% similar).Colour Pop Fault Line (P, $4.50) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (85% similar).

Formula Overview

$25.00/0.04 oz. – $625.00 Per Ounce

Pat McGrath’s eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be “super-saturated” with “creamy, soft textures” and “extreme blendability and adherence without creasing.” A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.

The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow–I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I’m not sure they’re as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash–I wish it really locked in, but there’s definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it’s within 2mm of the base.

The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.

 

Ingredients

Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Silica, Zinc Stearate, Mica, Talc, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Tin Oxide, Sorbic Acid, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).

Pat McGrath Crimson Fire EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Crimson Fire EYEdols Eyeshadow

Pat McGrath Crimson Fire EYEdols EyeshadowPat McGrath Crimson Fire EYEdols Eyeshadow

Crimson Fire

Crimson Fire is a rich, deep copper with warm, reddish undertones and a pearly sheen. The eyeshadow had fantastic color coverage in a single layer, which applied well to bare skin with a smooth, even lay down of product that diffused well along the edges. The texture was smooth to the touch, dense but not stiff, and easy to pick up with a brush. It stayed on nicely for nine and a half hours before I noticed slight fading. It performed consistently with past releases.

Urban Decay Gash (LE, $19.00) is darker, warmer (95% similar).Tarte Iguana Love You (LE, ) is more shimmery, warmer (95% similar).Coloured Raine Noblewoman (PiP, $6.99) is more shimmery, darker (95% similar).Tarte Fire Dancer (P, $22.00) is more shimmery, cooler (90% similar).Kat Von D Swoon (Better Together) (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).Juvia’s Place Bororo (P, ) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).Viseart Nuance #6 (PiP, ) is more shimmery, lighter (90% similar).Huda Beauty Turkish Delight (PiP, ) is more shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).Natasha Denona Purpure (147M) (PiP, $29.00) is more shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).MAC It’s Not Easy Having a Good Time (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery, lighter, warmer (90% similar).

Formula Overview

$25.00/0.04 oz. – $625.00 Per Ounce

Pat McGrath’s eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be “super-saturated” with “creamy, soft textures” and “extreme blendability and adherence without creasing.” A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.

The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow–I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I’m not sure they’re as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash–I wish it really locked in, but there’s definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it’s within 2mm of the base.

The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.

 

Ingredients

Mica, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Talc, Dimethicone, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).

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