It is little recognized indisputable fact that Jaeger LeCoultre was based in 1833, not a lot as a watchmaker however as a maker of extremely exact watch elements (starting with invention of an industrialised course of to chop watch pinions from metal). Hence, for 2019, the Grande Maison’s concentrate on the Art of Precision, is full circle of types and the distillation of near 200 years of precision engineering and manufacturing, of which, watchmaking is now the core focus however not initially, the model’s raison d’etre.
Indeed, Antoine LeCoultre could have begun his journey into horology shortly after his invention however he by no means forgot his guiding philosophy of excessive precision, inventing the Millionomètre, the world’s most exact measuring instrument in 1844, pursuing the skill to make watch elements with ever exacting tolerances. Speaking to new CEO Catherine Alix-Renier, World of Watches was eager to know the Art of Precision through the eyes of the business’s first feminine Chief Executive.
Jaeger LeCoultre Art of Precision through the Eyes of CEO Catherine Alix-Renier
How did they suppose to make use of variations in temperature to energy it? The Jaeger LeCoultre derives vitality from small temperature and atmospheric stress adjustments in the surroundings, and might run for years with out human intervention.
Within a sealed capsule, a combination of gases develop and contract with every temperature change, winding the mechanism naturally, with none human intervention; The Atmos’ gearing is understood for its accuracy: the moon-phase mannequin, for instance, accumulates a one-day discrepancy solely as soon as each three,821 years
180 specialist expertise, practically 1,250 calibres, and 400 patents, there’s quite a bit of scope to expression the maison’s technical and inventive precision, what are some of the extraordinary examples which might greatest characterize the Grande Maison?
I’d begin with our icon, the Reverso; in phrases of type and an expression of magnificence, it’s most consultant of the historical past of our maison. I’d then transfer onto the Atmos, it has a tremendous story and mechanism. Through the years, it’s expressed the fixed technical and inventive evolution of the model annually. Finally, the pinnacle of the Art of Precision, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetual Calendar however, the Duometre is a improbable technique to showcase the model’s skill, will and keenness to innovate technical watchmaking experience and the as we speak, it stays a extremely wanted emblem for collectors.
Métiers Rares are a favorite at JLC, given the scarcity of expert craftsman, how does JLC intend to perpetuate these positive arts?
We already nurture these abilities, now we have many apprentices in the workshops in a particular program. This is a devoted space for them to study and apply their expertise with the specialists. Throughout the workshop, additionally, you will discover apprentices hooked up to the masters of one of the 180 metiers uncommon, specialising in a talent. This is essential to us, while you’re in a discipline of excessive complexity and excessive artistry, for those who don’t defend this understand how for the future, it could disappear. It is a hazard for Métiers Rares to cease after which re-appear all of the sudden, it’s essential to have continuity from one era to the subsequent so that you don’t lose the experience.
The 1,000 Hours Control was launched by JLC in 1992 to specific precision, and there’s a rising quantity of certification exams which give hallmarks, how does the watchmaker’s watchmaker intend to high this?
One of the essential values of Jaeger is to all the time take a look at bettering all the things we do. Performance is clearly at the high of our minds. This 12 months we’re launched the Master Ultra-Thin assortment they usually’ve been outfitted with 70 hours energy reserve. We have labored on the calibre and reworked many of the elements so we are able to prolong run time with out making the motion thicker. In parallel, the 1000 Hours Control is gaining six extra steps in the monitoring, recording and comply with up of exams carried out on this course of.
The Duomètre collection, with two powertrains driving timekeeping and problems independently was a outstanding expression of watchmaking know-how, it’s been some time since we’ve seen a brand new one, will we see extra growth with that collection as half of the Art of Precision marketing campaign?
Oh sure however you’ll have to preserve a glance out at the subsequent SIHH. [laughs]
A guilloche enamel dial like the one seen on the Master Ultra-Thin Moon Enamel might be as troublesome because it will get, what type of metiers d’artwork are comparable expressions of inventive precision?
Every single metiers has its complexity. Some of the engraving work is extremely difficult, a civilian trying it for the first time rapidly realises that its not solely an actual job however its not one which anybody off the road can do. That stated, the Gyrotourbillon is the highest expression at present, the gearwork is seen, as are the 360 cuts on the enamel, and three executions of every line, to create the guilloche, I don’t know what’s the more difficult when this timepiece at present exists.
Pursuing precision typically means a contest between the hand of the artisan and the pinpoint accuracy of laptop numerical management (CNC) machines, how does JLC intend to handle or stability this battle?
The Art of Precision is at the core of the historical past of Jaeger LeCoultre. It has all the time been a stability between innovation and the seek for precision. Our entry into the world of watchmaking started at merely attempting to enhance the elements of the watch and every calibre starting with the pinions. We minimize it to an utmost stage of precision after which we invented a machine in 1844 to measure microns in the development of precision in watchmaking. We bought awarded at the Universal Exhibition in London in the mid 19th century for our contributions to the discipline of horological precision. This didn’t come in consequence of watchmaking per se, precision is solely at the core of our enterprise. Going again to 2004, when the maison launched the gyrotourbillon with the impact of utterly cancelling the impact of gravity for the highest precision, it’s fairly a pure growth in the means the maison thinks about innovation.
This is an abridged version of the full interview which can seem in our WOW March 2019 concern.